Suomenlinna

The Suomenlinna sea fortress just off the coast from Helsinki is a place full of atmosphere. The impressive fortifications became a UNESCO world heritage site in the early 1990s. It's just a 15 minute ferry ride from the market place (first picture) and I think it's a must see. The municipal ferries run every 20 minutes, so you could just go for the trip, an experience in itself, but I recommend staying for at least an hour, preferably two. The older ferries (second picture) have really atmospheric passenger compartments - old wooden seats, yellow walls, red columns - the newer ones, much less so. Sit in there for some people watching, or go out on the small car deck in the middle and look at the small islands and the approaching island of Suomenlinna.

The island itself is really four islands. Turn right on leaving the ferry and across the bridge for the two smaller connected islands of Pikku Mustasaari Lansi-Mustasaari, much less frequented than Iso Mustasaari, where you disembark. Alternatively, continue straight across on the main path and in five minutes to the surprisingly modern and well-resourced Visitor Centre just before the bridge to Susaari and with the docks to the right. Wherever you go there are imposing barracks, military installations, old wooden houses -and even a submarine.

It's probably at its most atmospheric for the photographer in the winter, when the serious snows arrive, or if you're lucky and catch sight of any of the garrisoned troops. There are shops and more besides - several hundred people live on the islands. There is a web site - http://www.suomenlinna.fi/ Suomenlinna won the Best Place in Helsinki vote organised by the City Planning Department in 2008!

I went in October and it was easy to leave the signposted tourist routes behind and discover for myself what Suomenlinna had to offer. I'd love to go back again when the snow's on the ground.