Tampere, city of museums

Tampere is an hour or so from Helsinki by rail. It's very reminiscent of towns in the north of England, with its red brick factories and mills. But now the Tammerkoski rapids in the middle of the city, along with the imposing industrial buildings, form one of Finland's national heritage landscapes. The Finlayson area, named after the Scottish industrialist, and other converted industrial areas house numerous of museums: notably perhaps the Museum of Workers Housing, the Boxing Museum, Finnish Hockey Hall of Fame, Finnish Museum of Refrigeration, Lenin Museum, Spy Museum, the Velaatta Milk Churn Platform Museum. The area has attracted an urban renaissance, with shops, restaurants, theatres, workshops and galleries.

On the day I visited the city last October, the constant rain gave me all the incentive I might have needed to call at two museums - firstly the Moominvalley of the Tampere Art Museum, Hämeenpuisto 20, is devoted to original works by writer and artist Tove Jansson. http://inter9.tampere.fi/muumilaakso/index.php?lang=en No photography allowed, unfortunately, but absolutely fascinating to see. I loved the artwork in Jansson's miniature pen and ink illustrations.

Museum Centre Vapriikki is a large museum complex close to the Tammerkoski rapids and includes, amonmg others, the Finnish Hockey Hall of fame and the Shoe Museum.

http://www.tampere.fi/english/vapriikki/index.html When I was there they had a fascinating Tibet exhibition. There was also the chance to take photographs.

Tampere impressed me, despite the dreary weather. No-one seemed too put outb by the constant rain that day. It has a kind of individuality and seems to be making a successful transition from manufacturing to service industries and building on its inherent appeal. In the summer, I might have had time to try out some of its other things ithad to offer.