When in Helsinki, take the tram

I really like using Helsinki’s public transport. Within a couple of minutes walk of the Stockmann store at Aleksanterinkatu you have the superb Art Deco Central Railway Station for suburban and long-distance trains, local buses departing from the two squares adjacent - Eliel Square (Elielinaukio) and Railway Square (Rautatientori) - a Metro station, the Kamppi shopping centre with its complex of regional buses and Metro, and the focal point of the extensive tram network.
















I especially love the older trams. I bought a three-day version of the HKL Tourist Ticket (€12) from an R-kiosk on Esplandi (these blue and yellow kiosks are everywhere and are the simplest place to buy tickets): you validate this on board the tram and it’s valid for 72 hours (you can check the expiry date and time on board as well). They generally run every few minutes and the central city stops have timetable information in real time. As most people travel with prepaid cards, which you normally only have to validate on first use, boarding trams is quick and easy. I only recall having my ticket checked once in five days. The Tourist Ticket includes use of the municipal ferry from the Market Square (Kauppatori) to the island of Suomenlinna – a world heritage site, of which more later.

The 3B and 3T tram route is generally quoted as the one most useful for tourists, as it traverses a roughly figure of eight circuit that’s really interesting in parts and connects many of the key tourist sites. While this is true, don’t neglect to try out other lines that take you to the less fashionable suburbs, the industrial or port areas.

Valtteri fleamarket

The Helsinki fleamarket known as Valtteri is one of the city's discoveries - it isn't mentioned in any of the guide books I've seen, (though it is in the Wikitravel entry on Helsinki) but it's a great insight into the real Helsinki. It's on Alexis Kivis gata, near the junction with Sturegatan. Tram 7A stops outside the entrance, trams 3B/3T and 1/1A pass nearby. Go at the weekend when it's busiest and you can see the indoor market - inside a large redbrick building - and the partly covered outdoor market at the rear. It has clearly defined sections indoors for books, for clothing, and for general bric-a-brac. Outdoors you can find furniture and more bric-a-brac.

When I went on a Saturday in October the market was really crowded, but the atmosphere was great and I spent around an hour and a half there quite happily and took quite a few photographs. It seems to be something of a good place for a family outing. The bookshop has a huge selection of books for one Euro, though I came away empty handed on this occasion.

Other markets to try: Hietalahti Antique and Art Hall , Hietalahdentori; for food, try Hakaniemi Market Hall (Hakaniemen kauppahalli) - Metro: Hakaniemi. Unpretentious ands with a superb range of bread and cakes, including Russian specialities; Old Market Hall (Vanha kauppahalli), right next to Market Square, an old brick building with a fine range of more gourmet food stalls.